I’d like to hear Iain Sinclair’s thoughts on the
psychogeography of Texas. How important
I’m trying to be vegetarian but I took a one day lapse on a
rare visit to Austin. My brother in law
(and Radio Mary Executive Producer) Irl drove me to Lockhart, Texas for
Some barbecue joints stretch back a hundred years and have a
history worthy of the Borgias. In
Lockhart, a family feud split Kreuz’s (which kept the name) and Smitty’s (which
kept the building, off the town square).
The walls of Smitty’s are a deep purple-black, the closest
thing in the natural world to the somber palette of the late Rothkos (in the
Rothko Chapel in Houston). Nothing quite
like the chiaroscuro of a 100 years of mesquite smoke.
The meat tradition of the town is that a hunk of smoked
flesh is sliced to order on to butcher paper.
The meat is served with slices of white bread. As a point of local pride there is no
fork. Fingers, knife, meat.
We had barbecue at 3 places and I promised myself to never
eat meat again (until my next trip back to Texas).